The peninsula was predominantly Greek pre-1974, and boasts some exquisite early churches which should not be missed. A few are still in use, as the Karpas retains a small community of Greeks, some 600 strong, who chose to stay behind after 1974, and they continue to live in and around Dipkarpaz. The rural landscapes are but sparsely populated, and as you drive out towards the ever-narrowing tip, you feel you are driving o the end of the earth. Indeed, so thinly inhabited is much of the Karpas, that driving through it you"ll often find that the only other road-users are the island"s indigenous donkeys who, clearly oblivious to oncoming traffic as they lollop across the tarmac, constitute something of a hazard.The corollary of its isolation is that accommodation and restaurants are relatively few and far between in the Karpas, so it is best to go well-equipped and self-sufficient, or plan ahead to build your itinerary round the available facilities. However, while there are no luxury hotels, over the past few years a few characterful places have sprung up, and if you have the time, we strongly recommend you spend at least one night on the peninsu?a.Restaurants,too, are beginning to grow in number, and in Bo?az, in the very west of the peninsula, a number of quality fish restaurants can now be found. Petrol stations, however, remain scarce, though all of the major towns, including Yenierenköy and Dipkarpaz now have at least one. Nevertheless, it is still a good idea to set off with a full tank and fill up when you can-on the Karpas, you can be a long way from help if you run out.It takes at least two days to explore the Karpas properly, especially if you are coming from Kyrenia. The drive from Kyrenia to Dipkarpaz takes about three hours, whereas from Salamis it takes less than two, and from Bo?az, one and a half. These timings are based on a gentle pace suited to the narrow winding roads. An early start is essential.
Touring the Karpas Peninsula
The Turks, ever since Sultan Selim first took a fancy to "the rock called Cyprus", have regarded the island as an extension of Anatolia. The long tapering peninsula that reached up to the northeast was described by Churchill as "the dagger which points at the soft underbelly of Turkey". If you choose to see in the landmass of Cyprus the shape of an oblong frying pan, you could choose to see in the Karpas the shape of the panhandle. Viewed this way rather than as a dagger, the handle is conveniently turned towards Turkey, the master who can seize it and take control.The peninsula falls into three distinct sections: first, from the fishing village of Bo?az to Ziyamet, the least interesting section, forming a kind of transitional zone from the mainland; next, from Ziyamet to Dipkarpaz, scenically much publicised Kanakaria Church and the early Ayia Trias basilica with its mosaic floor; and finally there is the section beyond Dipkarpaz, definitely the most rewarding stretch, with the northern fork to Ayios Philon and Aphendrika, and the southern fork to the Apostolos Andreas Monastery and Kastros at the very tip. Inn an ideal world, this section would warrant an entire day in itself, with time to enjoy one of the many deserted beaches, something that is best achieved by spending the night at the one of the hotels along here.Those who can only devote a day to the Karpas should head out beyond Dipkarpaz to Ayios Philon and Aphendrika, then drive on for lunch at the Blue Sea Hotel and take a quick look at the Apostolos Andreas Monastery. On the way back, call in at Ayia Trias in the Greek village of Sipahi. Kanakaria Church is kept locked, and the key has to be extracted from the village muhtar or headman, so that is best left for an occasion with plenty of time. There are many other minor churches and sites, and the more leisured visitor can take his pick from the following itinerary.